How can I get a 94 Ford Probe 2.0 L Mazda five spd. to sto

How can I get a 94 Ford Probe 2.0 L Mazda five spd. to stop ticking? It sounds like it is going to blow up.
Local area machine shop hottie here. Motor has 228,000 and ticked since 68,000 'bout ten years ago. it is really bad now. I use 5W30 only, usually high mi. formula. Put an oil additive slick 50 ot the like every 30 50,000. Tried the stop lifter tap crap which does not work on anything I do not think. haha All routine maintenance dun oil, all tune up, incl. timing belts three, clutch, etc. since 1st bringin Ugly Betty home. Yes, she was Betty before the tele came along and she's just got uglier and uglier. She's still sweet with her walker exhaust and cold air induction. generally run 89 octane. I wanna run her till she poops and then I plan on a rebuild luv this motor most bang for the buck in a go kart. I know off the subject. help me not be so embarrassed to drive my baby. What can I do to calm collapsed lifter s ?.?. btw anybody know if fuel injectors go bad usually on Mazda motors yes, I know Betty is a Mazda, only reason I bought her. Appreciate all answers

though you may need a value job or I will head rebuild, here is something to attempt.

Your engine, head, valves, pistons, etc are most likely heavily carboned up or varnished. Cleaning this crap out of the motor may make a big difference.

Go to a local Chrysler dealership and pick up a couple cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner. it is dirt cheap and will really clean up carbon & varnish deposits.

Just follow the information on the label. Get a friend to assist you with this. It may be hard to keep the engine running while using the MCCC.

You spray it into the throttle body directly, while the engine is running. This will create lots of smoke so do it outdoors. Once the can is empty let the engine stop. Let it sit overnight. The next day start the car and frequently rev it for a couple minutes, then take it for a long highway drive. Rev the engine hard every now, then while driving.

You can repeat this a week or so afterward for a second cleaning.

This will really clean up the engine and may decrease some of the ticking if carbon or varnish deposits are part of the because.

you need a valve job
but with those miles just get the whole motor rebuilt

it means its time to get a new car.. ford probe=CRAP

Use 20 50 if you may be able to find it.
I plan on running my Miata's till I die.
So I already have an engine that I'm rebuilding.
I am relaying this to you because you have to find an engine before this one dies. Either already rebuilt, or from a salvage yard. That way you pick the time to replace it the engine and save the tow bill.
If you're real courageous, rebuild the one you take out.
Keep in mind, that it's cheaper to rebuild an engine before it blows.

I got '88 626 2.2 turbo five speed with 245K on it. You got hydraulic lifters in there, replace them to stop valve knocking, or it'll because you to do valve job, but attempt to put 20 50 oil in it 1st, it may be enough to take care of it.

Try Valvoline Synethic Oil Treatment as the add.
Valvoline Maxlife looks to calm my B2000 lifters more than the rest.

I do not get better results with 15 40 or heavier oils as you have lifter tick that's more annoying than a danger. I'd do the head cleaning suggested and techron from Chevron as the four will carbonup also as make sure the PCV system is clear as the carbon also can lift the head and because cracks / head gasket fix. Fix the lifters by replacing the HLA when you have to do some other head maintenance.

Look for a used japan import engine as reasonable fix if the rest of the car is ok. Cheaper than a rebuild but keep your old motor rather than turn it in for a core deposit as the head alone is worth more than the core deposit.