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To replace 1987 Chevy S10 steering parts, remove the entire steering hardware assembly as a single unit to ensure geometric consistency. The process requires new inner and outer tie rods, a center link, and an idler arm to eliminate the “loose and wobbly” steering common in older trucks. The 1987 Chevy S10 suits DIY truck owners looking to restore steering feel, while owners of modern EVs should skip this method due to different steering geometry.
Who this method suits — and who should use another
Readers who should use this method
- DIY truck owners with a 1987 Chevy S10 should use this method to fix wobbly steering on an old truck.
- S10 restoration enthusiasts should use this method to restore a “new” feel to a vintage vehicle.
- Home mechanics should use this method to learn how to fix steering play by replacing the entire linkage at once.
Professional alignment shops and modern EV owners should skip the 1987 Chevy S10 procedure
- Professional alignment shops should skip this method as they require specialized alignment racks for final adjustments.
- Owners of modern EVs should skip this method and look for service guides specific to their vehicle’s electric steering systems.
What to do next about the 1987 Chevy S10 steering hardware
- Remove the entire steering assembly to ensure geometric consistency during the refresh.
- Clean the removed components in a parts washer to remove old grease and surface contaminants.
- Measure the tie rod thread spacing to 18 and 12 from the end of the thread.
- Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the threads to prevent future seizing.
- Use toe plates to align the wheels before final installation to minimize adjustments on a rack.
- Perform a power steering flush to ensure clean fluid flow through the new hardware.
The Benefits of a Full Steering System Refresh
A complete 1987 Chevy S10 steering refresh replaces the inner tie rods, outer tie rods, center link, and idler arm simultaneously. Because these components are inexpensive, replacing the entire set is more efficient than replacing parts on only one side of the truck. This approach ensures the truck won’t need to be returned to a shop for adjustments due to mismatched geometry.
Steps for steering Hardware Replacement Process
- Remove all steering hardware as a single assembly.
- Clean the removed components in a parts washer to remove old grease.
- Paint the assembled components (if desired) and mask the threads.
- Thread the inner and outer tie rods together, noting reverse threads.
- Apply anti-seize to the threads.
- Measure the tie rod thread distance to '18 and 12' from the end of the thread.
- Use toe plates to align the wheels before final installation.
- Install the assembly back onto the vehicle.
- Perform a power steering flush.
Removing the 1987 Chevy S10 steering hardware as a single assembly is preferred
Removing the steering hardware as a single assembly is the preferred method for this truck steering hardware replacement. By removing the unit entirely, you can ensure that all components are correctly oriented and sized before they are bolted to the chassis. This method minimizes the time spent wrestling with individual joints in the cramped front end of the truck.
The 1987 Chevy S10 steering hardware requires a thorough cleaning in a parts washer
The 1987 Chevy S10 steering hardware requires a thorough cleaning in a parts washer to remove years of old grease and grime. Once cleaned, applying a thin layer of anti-seize to the threads is essential for future serviceability. Optionally, painting the components helps protect the metal from environmental damage, though it must be done carefully to avoid contaminating the threads.
Assembling Tie Rods and Identifying Taper Differences
The inner and outer tie rods for the S10 are designed with distinct tapers to ensure they only seat in the correct holes. One tie rod features a shorter, steeper taper, while the other features a longer, shallower taper. Identifying these differences is critical; attempting to force a rod into the wrong hole can damage the threads or the steering linkage.
To ensure factory-correct geometry during an S10 tie rod install, the source specifies a thread distance of 18 and 12 from the end of the thread. This measurement ensures the sleeves are positioned exactly as they were when the truck left the factory. If you skip this measurement and simply tighten the rods until they feel snug, the truck may pull to one side.
Precision Alignment with Toe Plates
Using toe plates allows you to perform a manual alignment before the final installation of the steering hardware. These plates hold the wheels in the correct direction so the truck is nearly aligned when it reaches the professional shop. This saves time on the alignment rack and ensures the wheels aren’t pointing in different directions before the final bolts are torqued.
Final Installation and Maintenance
The final step of the truck steering hardware replacement involves installing the pre-assembled unit onto the vehicle and performing a power steering flush. Flushing the system ensures that the new hardware operates with clean fluid rather than old, contaminated oil. This completes the transition from loose steering on an old truck to a responsive, “new” feeling system.
When NOT to use this method
Do not use this method if the Pitman arm is cracked or significantly bent. The Pitman arm is a solid chunk of metal that does not contain a ball joint, so it only fails when it suffers structural damage. If the arm is damaged, it must be replaced or repaired by a professional rather than being included in a standard hardware refresh.
What 1A Auto has not confirmed about 1987 Chevy S10 18 and 12 measurements
- 1A Auto has not announced the specific price for the steering hardware kit.
- The manufacturer has not confirmed if the 18 and 12 measurement applies to all production years of the 1987 Chevy S10.
A DIY owner’s path to better steering
Suppose John owns a 1988 Chevy S10 that has felt loose in the steering wheel since it sat in a garage for three years. John removes the entire steering assembly as one unit and cleans the tie rods in a parts washer before applying anti-seize to the threads. He identifies the correct taper for each tie rod stud and threads them to the 18 and 12 position. Finally, he uses toe plates to align the wheels before bolting the assembly back onto the truck. The truck’s steering feels tight and responsive like a new vehicle.
If John had only replaced the hardware on one side, he might have had to perform multiple adjustments or face alignment issues later. By choosing the assembly-based method, he ensures the geometry is perfect before the truck even hits the road.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the Pitman arm need to be replaced on a 1987 Chevy S10 steering refresh?
The Pitman arm does not need to be replaced during a standard refresh because it is a solid chunk of metal with no ball joint. It only requires replacement if the arm is bent or structurally compromised.
Why are there different types of tapers on the tie rod studs?
The tie rod studs use different tapers—one steeper and shorter, and one shallower and longer—to ensure they only fit into their specific designated holes. This design prevents the inner and outer rods from being installed in the wrong orientation.
How do I stop my steering parts from seizing up in the future?
To stop steering parts from seizing, apply a thin layer of anti-seize or grease to the threads before assembly. Ensuring the parts are properly lubricated during installation allows for easier maintenance and disassembly later.
Can I align the truck myself after this?
You can perform a preliminary alignment yourself by using toe plates to get the wheels pointing in the correct direction. However, a professional shop is still required to perform the final alignment on a rack to ensure perfect toe and caster settings.
Based on 1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know’s 1987 Chevy S10 Gets New Steering Parts.